Thursday, May 28, 2009

Upgrading Your Capacitors





Capacitors are some of the easiest things to install on a guitar. They also make a huge impact in the tone of the instrument. In today's blog, I will go over some basic knowledge of capacitors as well some of the bang for your buck components that you can purchase.

Capacitance in it's definition is the ability of a body to hold a charge. A capacitor is a passive electronic component made up of a pair of conductors separated by a dielectric. Basically what this means is that the capacitor holds a charge. Guitars are a very low voltage so they don't require an enormous amount of voltage in the capacitor area.

The capacitor in a guitar is found between the volume pot and the tone pot. Most guitar manufacturers install ceramic disc capacitors. The reason that they do this is two fold:

  • First and foremost, they are cheap and most major guitar manufacturers buy in bulk so this makes sense.
  • Second is as I mentioned earlier that guitars don't require much in the capacitance area because there are very low voltage signals that run through them.

Now that you know a little about capacitors, I want to break down a few for you and explain the difference as well as cover some of the basic costs involved. I will also cover some of the tools that will make this process as simple as making a peanut butter sandwich, which if you play guitar at all and live on the kind of budget that most of us live on, you know what I'm talking about. We will start with the most basic and end up with the really great (All of which will be at a bargain price).

  • Ceramic Discs- These are what normally come installed in most major guitar manufacturer's instruments. They cost between $0.40 and $0.50 a piece and have a range of .022 uF @ 100V for humbucking guitars like the Les Paul and .047 uF @ 100V for guitars with single coils like Strats and Tele's. Once again, these are basic caps that are not bad, but definitely not the greatest.
  • Orange Drops- These are a great upgrade to the ceramic discs. They cost between $1.00 and $1.40 and have a range of .022 uF @ 600V for Humbuckers and .047 uF @ 600V for single coils. You will notice the high end sounds will start to sparkle a little more and the lows will have more presence as well.
  • Mojotone Dijon- These caps rock! They cost between $1.00 and $1.30 and have a range of .022 uF @ 630V for humbuckers and .047 uF @ 630V for single coils. The difference in these compared to ceramic discs is like driving a crappy car with no air conditioning and then going to a luxury sedan. The high notes shimmer and the low notes rumble. I would highly recommend these caps, and you can't beat the price.
  • Mojotone Vitamin T- These caps are like Bruce Lee in Enter The Dragon. If you have seen this movie, you know that he pretty much kicks everyones butt the whole time. They are a little more on the pricey side coming in at $4.15 to $5.00 and have a range of .022 uF @ 600V for the humbuckers and .047 uF @ 600V for the single coils. Still a pretty good bargain considering they are oil filled caps which give these a warmth that hearken back to the guitar gods of the 60's and 70's.
Now for the installation. First of all you need a pretty good soldering iron. I would recommend a Weller. They seem to hold together the longest and are pretty easy to change tips on. Second, you need a #2 phillips head screwdriver to access the back plate or pick guard depending on the guitar that you are working on. Third, you need a pair of needle-nose pliers to grip the old capacitor(s). Fourth, you need an old towel that you don't really care about so that you can cut a hole in it and lay it over you working area. This helps keep the solder splatter off of the rest of the guitar. Now that you have the tools that you need, let's get this thing up and running.

When you open the back plate and look at the pots, it will probably be a little intimidating because there are a few wires in there. That's ok because you are only looking for the cap between the two pots. It should be easy to spot because it is about the size of an eraser on a pencil and about the same color as well. Now that you have found the capacitor, you need to get the soldering iron ready to go. Plug it in and make sure that you have a base or stand to set it in because these get extremely hot. Also make sure you have a small tip on the soldering iron. This will keep you from burning something else inside the cavity. Now, take the needle nose pliers and grip the capacitor. Use the soldering iron and touch the tip to the lug of the pot where the capacitor is connected. You will feel the solder start to give. At this point, gently pull with the needle nose pliers. The capacitor should pull right out of the lug on the pot. Do the same thing on the other end of the capacitor where it is connected to the adjoining pot. Once you have done this, you are ready to install the new capacitor(s). Basically you will install the cap the same way that you took it out. You simply hold the cap with the needle nose pliers. You want to be gentle with this process because you don't want to damage the new caps. You will notice that the lug on the pot that took the cap out will have a hole in it. (If not, it is because it is filled with solder. In this case take the soldering iron and rub the tip on the end of the lug. This should clear away any excess solder in the hole.) After making sure you have a hole to work with, take the needle nose pliers and make a bend in the capacitor wire right at the very end. I prefer a 90 degree just on the tip of wire. Use this to hook into the hole at the lug. This will allow you to hold it in place a little better when you solder the connection. Now take your soldering iron and put in on the tip of the lug and the wire that is in the hole and heat it up. Be carefull not to use too much heat as you can burn out the capacitor. Use a very small amount of solder and touch it to the iron and the lug. Ok, do this again on the other side and you are done. How freaking simple is that?

Any of these capacitors aside from the ceramic discs would be a great upgrade to all of you seeking better tone for your guitar. Personally I would recommend the Mojotone Dijon's. They are about the same price as the Orange Drops, but sound incredibly better in my humble opinion. They are not quite as warm as the Vitamin T's, but unless you are Eric Johnson, you will never know the difference.

**If you have any questions about the tips in this blog, or would like to see a post about something we haven't covered, please email us at: guitarguruguys@gmail.com

9 comments:

  1. Yes it is ok to cut down the leads the fit the pocket. This will also look better in the pocket as well, however it won't have much impact on the tone. Something else that I forgot to mention in that post was to make sure that you use some shielding to protect the leads. This is something that you can get from you local Radio Shack, and it will keep you from accidentally grounding you cap out. I hope this helps and there will be much more on the way from Guru 1 & 2. Good question.

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  2. No problem, glad to help. Please keep us updated on how your project turns out, and pass the word along for us.

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  3. Hi...I've Dijon's in a 2001 Les Paul Raw Power that has 500K CTS pots. The guitar has maple top and the pickups are WCR Godwood (about 10k at the bridge). The guitar is a bit bright and thin sounding...I'm assuming because of the combination of maple + Dijon...would it help to change to Vitamin T caps to curb what seems to almost be a shrill high-end?

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  4. Hey there, good question!
    Actually, the brand of capacitor won't show much, if any, noticeable impact on the brightness or treble frequencies you are noticing. This has more to do with the rating of the cap (I'm guessing you are using a .022uF...)

    My best recommendation would actually be to either try switching to a 250K - 300K pot, or a .047uF cap. You will probably notice a more pleasing impact on the tone with the pot change, but you may want to try the cap too just to experiment (the cap will be a cheaper mod, so you may want to try getting a cheap ceramic .047 to throw in there first to see if it gets you in the ballpark of tones you are looking for- if not, you may want to go for the pot).

    We'll cover potentiometers in an upcoming post soon, but the basic idea is the the lower the rating of the pot- the less treble you will allow into the signal. Likewise, the higher the rating of the cap, the less treble.

    Hope this helps, and please let us know what you decide to do, and how it turns out for you!

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  5. Sounds like you have a pretty hot pick up in the bridge position. I did some research on it and 10k sounds pretty high for this particular pick up. It should be in the 7k to 8k range. This is still not a problem and Guru 2 has led you down the right path so far. One other thing that I would try to avoid squeeling piggies on the high end would be to check the pick up height. Just press down the high E and the low E strings on the 22nd fret and take a ruler that measures in 64th's and measure the distance between the pole pieces on the pick up and the string. You are looking for a distance of 3 64th's of an inch. If you are closer than this you will notice a lot more of this thin sound that you are describing. By backing down the pick up height 1 or 2 64th's, you will start to notice that this will help warm your tone up a little and keep the dogs from howling. Once again, please let us know how this turns out, and pass the word about the blog.

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  6. Thanks, guys. I'll check the pickup height and experiment with this before I do anything else...I appreciate your site and the help you are extending!!!

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  7. Hey guys...the Godwood bridge is actually 9.5K...I was a little high, you were a little low...I'll mess around with pickup height and get back to you...thanks!

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  8. Food for thought. I just tried some .047 uF's on a few guitars with HB's and I've got to tell you that I think I am going to switch out all of my personal guitars that have HB's to .047 uF's. I could not believe the difference that it made in the tone. It took the shrill high sqeeling piggies away and made a huge impact in the overall tone of the guitar. It made the high end much more smooth and had a subtle boost to the mid range. I usually do the .022 uF mods to anything with HB's, but I think after you hear the difference of the .047 uF's you may feel the same way I do. I've got some pictures of the experiment that we did with the .022's and .047's, and as soon as I can get them loaded, I will post them. We are also planning on doing some sound clips to give you a general idea as to the tone you can expect. Best of luck and let us know how it turns out.

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  9. Thanks for that...I'll grab some from mojosupply and install them as soon as I can...thanks for your help!!!

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